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áo dài

Áo dài (English: ; Vietnamese: [ʔaːw˧˦ zaːj˨˩] (North), [ʔaːw˦˥ jaːj˨˩] (South)) is a modernized Vietnamese national garment consisting of a long split tunic worn over silk trousers. It can serve as formalwear for both men and women. Áo translates as shirt and dài means "long". The term can also be used to describe any clothing attire that consists of a long tunic, such as nhật bình.
There are inconsistencies in usage of the term áo dài. The currently most common usage is for a Francized design by Nguyễn Cát Tường (whose shop was named Le Mur), which is expressly a women's close-fitting design whose torso is two pieces of cloth sewn together and fastened with buttons. A more specific term for this design would be áo dài Le Mur. Other writers, especially those who claim its "traditionality," use áo dài as a general category of garments for both men and women, and include older designs such as áo ngũ thân (five-piece torso), áo tứ thân (four-piece torso, no buttons), áo đối khâm (four-piece torso, no buttons), áo giao lĩnh/lãnh (six-piece torso, no buttons). Some writers even go so far to claim that the term áo dài ("long top/garment") may have been calqued from Chinese terms for Manchu garments, such as the Mandarin changshan/changpao (長衫/長袍, men's "long top/robe") and the Cantonese cheongsam (長衫, women's "long top"), and include these garments in the category of áo dài.
The predecessor of the áo dài was derived by the Nguyễn lords in Phú Xuân during 18th century. This outfit was derived from the áo ngũ thân, a five-piece dress commonly worn in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The áo dài was later made to be form-fitting which was influenced by the French, Nguyễn Cát Tường and other Hanoi artists redesigned the áo dài as a modern dress in the 1920s and 1930s. The updated look was promoted by the artists and magazines of Tự Lực văn đoàn (Self-Reliant Literary Group) as a national costume for the modern era. In the 1950s, Saigon designers tightened the fit to produce the version worn by Vietnamese women. The áo dài dress for women was extremely popular in South Vietnam in the 1960s and early 1970s. On Tết and other occasions, Vietnamese men may wear an áo gấm (brocade robe), a version of the áo dài made of very thick fabric and with sewed symbols.
The áo dài dress has traditionally been marketed with a feminine appeal, with "Miss Ao Dai" pageants being popular in Vietnam and with overseas Vietnamese. However, the men version of áo dài or modified áo dài are also worn during weddings or formal occasions. The áo dài is one of the few Vietnamese words that appear in English-language dictionaries. The áo dài can be paired with the nón lá or the khăn vấn.

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